I stood on a cliff in central Montana, staring at the wide-open space all around me. This land, now peaceful, was once a hunting ground for Native tribes like the Shoshone-Bannock and Crow. They used to drive bison off this very cliff for food and survival. Clark Carlson-Thompson, who works at First Peoples Buffalo.
This park was my first stop on a trip across Montana’s grassy plains to learn about the state’s ranching history—and taste the steaks that come from it. As I looked out over the endless green fields, I remembered the local joke: you could watch your dog run away for three days!
Soon, my stomach was rumbling, and I drove to Ulm, a small town nearby. There, I found Beef N Bone Steakhouse, a cozy place with a fireplace. I ordered a bison steak, which is leaner and healthier than beef, but it was a bit too lean for my liking.
Montana’s story is deeply tied to cattle. Native tribes hunted bison for centuries, but by the late 1800s, settlers wiped out most bison and replaced them with cattle. Cattle ranching became key to feeding miners, loggers, and towns across the state.
After my meal, I drove east to Fort Benton and stayed at the historic Grand Union Hotel, where cowboys and miners once stayed during Montana’s gold rush.
Next, I visited Butte, a mining town with lots of history. I stayed at the old Hotel Finlen and dined at Casagranda’s Steakhouse, located in a red-brick building.
The next day, I visited the Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site. It’s a working ranch today, just like it was in the 1800s. Volunteers dress like cowboys and cook over open fires. I even sipped strong coffee brewed by the campfire while looking at the wide prairie.
Montana is still full of cattle ranches, both big and small. Some, like the Mannix family ranch in the Blackfoot Valley, are finding new ways to survive.
Mannix also opened two restaurants in Helena. At the Old Salt Outpost, you can grab a burger made with local grass-fed beef and fries cooked in beef fat. Across the street, at the Union, I had a rib eye steak with marrow butter and purple potatoes.
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