At the heart of this trip is a very dark moment in history. But around it, there is stunning beauty, happiness, and freedom. Thailand is the only Southeast Asian country that was never colonized by a Western power. Britain and France once agreed to make the Chao Phraya valley a “buffer” state, helping Thailand stay free.
As I bike, hike, kayak, and travel across Thailand, I find time to reflect. The book The Narrow Road to the Deep North, which won the Booker Prize in 2014 and was turned into a BBC series, tells the story of an Australian doctor haunted by his time as a prisoner of war during the building of the Burma Railway. Though Myanmar (formerly Burma) is still facing trouble, the “Death Railway” also passes into Thailand.
This trip is physically challenging. G Adventures rates it a level three in difficulty – “Average.” But two steps higher, you’re trekking to Everest’s base camp! So, before my adventure begins, I relax in style at the Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit. My 17th-floor room overlooks the city, and I enjoy breakfast, afternoon tea, and cocktail hour at the Club Millésime lounge.
A day tour of Bangkok takes me through busy temples like Wat Arun and Wat Saket, colorful flower markets, tasty street food stalls, and the crowded, exciting Chinatown. Delivery scooters weave through narrow streets, making it a lively experience.
The next day, we ride bikes around Chinatown before heading by coach to Kanchanaburi. This small town, two hours from Bangkok, is near the Myanmar border. During World War II, prisoners and laborers were forced to build the Burma Railway and the bridge over the River Kwai — actually the Khwae Yai River (our guide Olé tells us “Kwai” is a Thai insult!). You can still walk across the bridge today.
Nearby is the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre, where I learn about the hardship prisoners faced. From the window, I see a huge cemetery with almost 7,000 graves. It’s a sad and powerful sight.
Next, we pedal around Ayutthaya, the old capital city, visiting ancient temples and the huge reclining Buddha. Then, we hop on a 13-hour sleeper train north to Chiang Mai.
In Chiang Mai, we head into the jungle near Chiang Dao. For 72 hours, we trek 25 km through dry forests, cross streams, climb steep slopes, and rest at beautiful homestays. My shoes weren’t great for hiking, but the adventure and the waterfalls made it all worth it.
After a relaxing night back in Chiang Mai, we fly south to Krabi. In Ao Nang, we enjoy beach fire shows, snorkeling, and island hopping. But an hour away in Laem Sak, it feels peaceful. We kayak through mangroves, visit floating fish farms, and explore hidden coves. Sunburned, bitten by mosquitoes, but happy, we catch our last sleeper train from Surat Thani.
Two weeks later, we roll back into Bangkok. The city welcomes us with a blazing sunrise. My first stop? A luxurious shower at the Four Seasons Bangkok by the Chao Phraya River. This hotel is breathtaking, with ponds that look like rice paddies and stunning rooms overlooking the river. After a relaxing massage and a great breakfast, I feel refreshed.
My last stop is at Overseas Tailor, where I pick up a suit I ordered when I first arrived. One of the tailors, King, tells me he is from Myanmar. When I ask if he would return home, he says, “Not for a generation, but I’m happy here.”
Thailand and Myanmar share a sad history, but Thailand stands free and full of life. Despite everything, Thailand’s beauty, strength, and warmth make it impossible not to smile.